I almost bought a jet boat once. Having been confined to drift boats for over a decade, bigger boats, with big horsepower, held a strong attraction. A sled is a stable platform. They can also fish a lot of heavy water that drift boats have to pass on. And most recently, side drifting had been proving itself to be incredibly successful for jet boats on my local river. I used all the standard lines of reasoning to justify the change: more room for the family, if the weather gets nasty we can quickly exit the river, trips could be shorter because of the big motors ability to head for the ramp at any time. Not having the cash to own two boats, I advertised my drift boat that had proven itself as a skilled and faithful angling companion over the previous five years. It sold immediately. As fast as the boat sold, the void left by its departure grew.

To make a short story out of what was an agonizing week in my life, I bought another drift boat.

The drift boat is a venerable fishing machine. When you stop and think about it, few inventions outside of the lead fishing weight have opened up so much water to the salmon and steelhead angler. Over the decades, the basic design of a drift boat has changed little. What has changed is the range of their use and the techniques anglers employ from them.

In the beginning, drift boats were simple transportation. As backtrolling grew, drift boats became more directly involved in the fishing. Over the last decade, savvy anglers have continued to push applications and methods further, and with the addition of a Minn Kota electric trolling motor, have added a new dimension to the drift boat as a fishing machine. Not only can these boats be fished better, but you can also free yourself from the oars and take part in some of the action yourself.

I first contacted these Minn Kota rigged drift boats in conversations with guides Kevin Marshall and Pete Field. The basics of the system include a 74lb. or 101lb. thrust Minn Kota RipTide electric motor, the appropriate number (2 or 3) deep cycle batteries, and a Minn Kota on board charging system. These electric motors are way beyond the egg-beaters of the past. With infinitely variable speed throttles, power rivaling small outboards, and ever-improving length of operation on a charge, these new breeds of Minn Kota electric motors have the power to confidently move a loaded boat in strong current. Combined with an on-board charging system, the boat is only an electrical outlet away from a fresh charge and ready for travel and multi-day fishing binges.

Already owning a gasoline powered kicker motor I could immediately understand the possibilities that a powerful electric motor would offer. First and foremost was balance. A gas kicker turns a drift boat into a poorly balanced endeavor. Fine in big water, but poor balance wrecks havoc on control in finesse situations, not to mention rowing in more technical water. With a fairly light motor, and the ability to locate batteries separately, an electric system retains the nimble balance of the boat. Second is fine-tuning. No motor offers the nuances of control like a variable throttle electric (it can and is accomplished with oars, but hey, I want to catch a few too). Third is stealth. Gas motors are loud, not to mention smelly. The electrics are quiet and stealthy, maintaining the virtues of the drift boat experience. Fourth is legality. Electric motors are legal for use on many more waterways than gasoline motors (always check regulations before use). Non-polluting (noise and chemicals) and friendly to river environments, there is no good reason for their being banished in the future (more on that later). And finally is direction of thrust. An electric motor’s prop direction can be easily changed opposite that of a gasoline motor, which mans the boat can be operated, bow down river, as it is designed to. A critical improvement over gasoline motors, allowing control from the upstream end of the boat where it is most effective.

Choosing the Right Motor
As Kevin explained to me, there are a couple of reasons for Minn Kota dominating this market. Primarily, it is because spinning the power head on a Minn Kota is a two-minute process, where the same task on competitive brands can be quite complicated. Secondarily, the shaft rigidity of the Minn Kota, especially in the 100+ pound of thrust range is superior, flexing much less under full power.

From there, you have to choose what size motor is for you. Many guides are moving to the 36 volt, 101lbs. thrust models. Most are in 18-, 19-, and 20-foot drift boats, while also needing all-day power with clients. The larger systems suit the larger boats well, and the larger boats can also handle the required three batteries (roughly 55lbs. ea.) In my 17-foot North River Drifter, I opted for the smaller 24 volt, 74lb. thrust system. Less power, and less longevity, but lighter weight which works better for me in a smaller boat. I also fish mainly with one other person, so I am not carrying the load of a guide boat. If you’re a daylight to dark angler, you may like the bigger motor better. For most recreational purposes, the 24 volt system will perform very well. Why not the smaller motors? The single battery motors lack both power and longevity for serious river applications.

Whichever motor you choose, you’ll need a charger with the appropriate number charging banks for the motor (2 or 3). There are also differences in the speed at which different chargers can repower the batteries, and the type of batteries (lead acid, gel cell, etc.) that chargers are optimal for. The simple solution is to go with the Minn Kota Smart Charger series. With both fast recharge times and the ability to chose charging profiles for different battery types, these chargers will remain useful throughout the life of the system (and replacement of batteries over the years). 

Finding Balance
The first key to the system is maintaining proper balance. With batteries, charger, motor and one or two friends (depending on what your normal load is) take the boat to a local ramp and float it. With the batteries and charger loose and motor on the back, locate batteries and charger for mounting in areas that weight the boat properly. Because my boat likes weight forward (or maybe because I need to compensate for my gutt) the best location was batteries and charger in the nose, under the front deck. The front compartment seat is another alternate.

 Installing the System
With some good guidance and tips from Kevin Marshall, installation was easy and only took a few hours.

1.      Run the main power wires. Use 8-guage wires for your power cord extensions. Using an abrasion protector over the wires is also recommended. In some boats you can leave floors in and run wire beneath the floors by pushing them from the gap at the point of the lower deck in the nose, all the way through to the transom. My floor are screwed down, so it was quick work with a screw gun to simply take them out. (Photo 1)

2.      To keep the wires from sliding back and forth and possibly abrading, I secured them with adhesive pads and plastic ties to the floor supports. ( Photo 2)

3.      Set the batteries in place so you can measure the necessary leads. (Photo 3)

4.      Cut your front leads to length. Solder terminals and shrink tube the connections. Use excess cable to make a jumper for the 24-volt system or two for a 36-volt system. Solder and shrink tube those connections also.(Photo 4)

5.      Most guides are using a 4-guage Belden battery cable quick-disconnect for the rear motor connections. Available at Napa Auto Parts. (Photo 5)

6.      A propane torch does a nice solder job on all the heavy wires. (Photo 6)

7.      Solder and shrink tube the connectors for the batter quick disconnect on the wires you installed. Cut the factory connections from the motor and install the other connectors on the motor cables. (Photo 7)

8.      The completed quick disconnect with connectors installed in the housing (Photo 8)

9.      Locate the batteries, with storage boxes, in their final home. Mark locations for tie down straps on both sides. (Photo 9)

10.  Remove the batteries. Drill and install tie-downs at marked locations. (Photo 10)

11.  On Kevin’s recommendation, I had a local shop weld me an aluminum ”T” and mounted the charger to it. (Photo 11)

12.  With the charger ready, replace batteries and make all electrical connections per the instructions with the motor and charger. (Photo 12)

13.  Carefully place the battery covers. And in this instance the charger is held between the batteries and rests on top. Two heavy-duty rafting straps hold the whole system in place. (Photo 13) Obviously, these locations and mounting can all change based on individual boats and preferences.

14.  Three screws hold the head of the Minn Kota in place. (Photo 14) Carefully remove all three, spin the head and replace. CAUTION: Don’t fracture the power cables replacing the head! I used a small piece of wood to separate the power cables before replacing the center screw.

15.  The motor with the head spun. (Photo 15)

16.  The finished clean connections in the transom. (Photo 16) Leave some extra cable to the motor so you can freely adjust the height as necessary.

River Test
I couldn’t wait to hit the water. Famous STS editor Nick Amato, Minn Kota factory rep. Mark Yano and I hit the Clackamas River to try and locate some summer steelhead and maybe a chinook. We side-drifted for steelhead and bounced for chinook. It will take some time to really learn the nuances of driving my boat well, but mistakes and overcorrecting aside, it was awesome: quiet, strong, and functional. With the motor head reversed, I had the bow pointed properly down stream at all times. Moving to the oars for rowing through riffles was simple and efficient.

The boat was loaded heavily, but we were able to fish all but the very fastest chinook water at the extreme heads of a couple of holes. The control while side-drifting was excellent, and the transit time from bottom to top of a hole was just enough to put on a fresh bait. We fished hard from daylight till 1 p.m. and the motor weakened, but there was ample power the whole time. One area in which I made a mistake was camping in very fast water with the motor running at 100%. While there is very little difference in actual boat speed with the motor at 50% versus 100%, running at maximum power cuts battery life in half or more. With practice, I’m sure I’ll be able to operate the system in a manner that maximizes fishing time.

We did not connect with any chinook, but we knew there were few there. We also knew that the summer steelhead run was proving to be poor, yet we managed to hook three chrome fish from waters most anglers had given up on. It was this kind of performance that I was most excited about with the new motor system.  

Not Everyone’s So Excited
While there is no noise, pollution, stream damage, or fish damage from the use of electric motors, there is a vocal group that is less than enthused about their use. In the arguments shortest form, the mobility, speed, and success rate of boats equipped with the systems has angered some anglers. Characterized as a speed-fishing-vacuum that quickly scours every fish from the river before others have a chance, owners and operators have been demonized. Reality tells me that there is a social issue at work between doing something new and those who prefer more traditional use.

I’m only going to enter the debate on two levels. First, as Guide Jack Smith told me, the motors do not cause problems, poor operators do. If you’re operating a boat with an electric, don’t fish through water in the immediate vicinity of bank anglers or anchored drift boats. Respect for others always goes a long way. And secondly, freedom from the anchor is the best thing that can happen on rivers. With a constantly moving group of boats, the opportunity to fish all the best water is there for everyone, not simply the guy that runs the river in the dark and drops the anchor, cornering a prime piece of water for himself (and I’m as guilty of that as anyone). A hole that can hold three anchored drift boats can easily accommodate at least six boats fishing in rotation with electric motors: three sliding through fishing and three moving back to the top of the run. Again, the same scenario can be accomplished with oars, which works well for guides on rivers like the Umpqua, but I certainly appreciate being able to fish while operating my boat.

Get The Lead Out Of Tidewater 
Getting off the anchor is not only a good idea for the rivers, but tidewater too. This is going to be my year. With quiet power and great control, it is time to bobber fish in the manner many of the very best do, on the fly. Pull the anchor and get on the moving tide. Pitch your baits (with each at varying depths) towards the brush-lines and use the electric motor to manage boat position while following the floats through large expanses of potential salmon water. I’ve watched it done. Even tried it with my gas motor, but that was noisy and too tough to control. Electric motors rule in this scenario and it appears to be a more active and fun way to fish tidewater. This is also the reason for purchasing the RipTide Series motors that are salt water compatible.

In the end, versatility will make for the best fishing over the course of the year. With the addition of a Minn Kota electric motor, the drift boat fisherman can add new entries to the playbook, which can only be a benefit. Should one of these systems be right for you, I’ll offer some key advice Grant Putnam shared me. Be extremely careful learning to drive or you’ll get thrown out the boat. I’d even go a step further and recommend a seat in the back. The narrow transom area can get thrown around in eddies if your not paying attention. As for the detractors of these systems, respect and courtesy will do far more to enhance everyone’s experience on the river than more rules and regulations.

Materials and Information
Minn Kota RipTide 74lb. Electric Motor

Minn Kota Smart Charger (MK 220 SC)

(2) Gell Cell Marine Deep Cycle Batteries

(2) Plastic Battery Boxes

(20 ft.) 8guage Marine Wire- Black

(20 ft.) 8guage Marine Wire- Red

(20 ft.) Abrasion Resistant Cover for Wires

(4) Battery Terminals for 8guage Wire

(1) Belden Battery Cable Quick-Disconnect

Propane Torch

Solder

(2 ft.) Shrink Tube

 In total, expect to spend around $1,000.00 for the 24 volt system, more for the 36 volt.

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